Cartier is unveiling “Cactus”

Cartier is unveiling “Cactus,” a new jewelry collection inspired by the mysterious allure of an austere plant

THE CARTIER archives are full of creations inspired by nature, especially plants and fowers. However, as image and style director Pierre Rainero notes, “We have found jewels shaped like cacti, but Cartier had never worked with their blossoms.” Until now: the brand’s new “Cactus” line is an ode to the fowers of this mysterious plant. A child of the desert, forbidding with its spines, life-sustaining with the water stored in its stalks… Its multitude of shapes and unpredictable fowering patterns provided a wellspring of ideas for an exceptional, decidedly feminine collection. “The fower is a classic metaphor for femininity in jewelry,” Rainero adds. “But we wanted something less conventional, and the cactus seemed a natural choice. Its shape is inspiring and its fower is rare—some varieties bloom only at night, and others only under the sun.”

Against a backdrop of gold crafted into spheres, facets or openwork patterns, chrysoprases, carnelians, cabochon emeralds, brilliant-cut diamonds and lapis lazuli reinvent the cactus, delineating its smooth, rounded forms and unique blossoms. The creations span the range from necklaces (one with multiple strands) to massive cuff bracelets, cocktail rings and earrings. The volumes are impressive, in keeping with the house’s tradition of favoring outsized, eye-catching jewels. But this is not a fne jewelry collection of one-of-a-kind pieces: “Cactus” was envisioned as an open-ended line to be developed further, depending on the success that it achieves. Which we can only imagine will be considerable, for such a sharply original concept. “That’s what we love at Cartier,” Rainero concludes. “A new idea gives rise to future creativity.”